Violetto Artichokes

Grown in Puglia, the heel of Italy, where the Adriatic light and limestone soil have produced the country's finest spring artichokes for centuries. Cut by hand from the first flush of the year, the heads still tight, the leaves still violet. April and May are their proper window, the first-cut crowns the largest and most tender they'll be. Trim hard, down to the pale heart, and rub with lemon to stop them browning. The Roman way: braise slowly with white wine, lemon, mint, garlic and good olive oil until the heart yields to a knife. Or shave one raw, paper-thin on a mandolin, dress with lemon, parmesan and olive oil, eat standing at the counter.